Truffles are the fruiting bodies of a fungi that grow in the earth of forested areas.

Mother Nature, a force to be reckoned with

As far back as the 1800’s the French gourmet Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin called truffles “the diamond of the kitchen” and whilst France is known as the ‘truffles nation’ their production rapidly expanded throughout Europe. Now, whilst every one of the 200 available species has its own quirky necessities for growth, it seems evident that the traditional European environment is where they thrive, opting for warm summers, cold winters, a little frost and a reasonable, even rainfall throughout the year (but by the way not too much) all delivered consistently over a 7 – 10 year period please – which surely isn’t too much to ask? So, when mother nature decides to throw in a little quirkiness of her own, upping the temperatures, becoming less consistent in her seasons and escalating rainfalls at the most inopportune moments these climate inconsistencies result in the decline and even destruction of truffle crops.

Where there is adversity, there is also opportunity

The rise of temperatures and decline of rainfall across the globe, which scientists arguably refer to as the result of climate change, has seen a disruption to European crops causing havoc not only to supply but to their ever increasing price.

But where there is adversity, we must search for opportunity, and so whilst the decline in European crops has had an impact on truffle growing, it has also unlocked great opportunity for the truffle farming industry in America, as well as expanded into some unlikely localities such as UK, Chile, South Africa, New Zealand and whilst a relatively new crop, rather successfully in the southern regions of Australia.

Rows of truffle trees in the orchard

The climate question is a complex one and purely considering temperatures and seasons could be taking a rather simplistic view. But when we take into account other influences such as soil conditions, farm design and water storage, we start to see quite clearly that Europe is going to face substantial challenges for truffle production in the coming years. The solution just may rest in American soil, where the future of truffle farming seems most hopeful.

Conception of the charlatan

The truffle industry is already compromised as the inferior Chinese grown product is creeping its way into the market with insinuations bouncing around that these Asian counterparts are being sprayed with synthetic aromas to make them smell like the real thing. But will the development into other countries result in the expansion of a charlatan or the production of a highly prized outcome that will become synonymous with its European counterpart? One thing we know for certain is that when it comes to mother nature – there are no certainties.

If you want to learn more about the distinctions of high quality truffles, make sure to read through.

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The rise of the knock-offs

A century ago the yearly find of truffles was around 2,000 tonnes, but now it’s currently down to a mere 30 tonnes. With countries like Italy, Dubai, Macau, China and the USA clamouring for the world record price, and chefs paying around $3,600 per pound, it’s no wonder a black market and inferior knock offs have emerged.

Dangerous business 

Not dissimilar to other illicit trade, the truffle business can be a clandestine business with location secrecy and tax evasion topping the list. The need for stealth in the truffle underworld gives rise to a significant number of exchanges occurring in remote and dark locations, often using a middle man and for cash. The legitimate European White Truffle is not immune to the same perils, as crafty producers smuggle inferior products across the border trying to pass them off as the real deal.

Once accomplishing the seedy exchange, and the delivery of any not-so-pure product back to the buyer, transporting your prized possession back to the restaurant is your next upheaval. Reports comprise of truffles stolen from vehicles and restaurants, muggings of vulnerable dealers robbed at gunpoint for cash and truffle or even followed home to be faced with a home invasion. Going beyond the human risk to include the innocent animals trained for years in the art of truffle discovery to be stolen or inhumanely poisoned by competing truffle hunters.

These examples are minor compared to when, in 2013, a German forestry worker hit by a car whilst detaining a gang of professional pickers for questioning. What’s more, 2010 gave way to an unprecedented shortage of black truffles in southern France ,which saw an intense crime wave develop. Two notorious incidents involved a gang using a stolen bulldozer to crash through the gates of a plantation in order to snatch truffles and truffle products. But the most infamous story of all was that of Ernest Pardo, shot dead by truffle producer Laurent Rambaud after he discovered Pardo on his property stealing his truffles.

Why so scarce?

Experts offer various suggestions behind the scarcity of truffles, with the most common being climate change. A decrease in rainfall and increase in temperatures means conditions for fungi growth are seriously hindered and despite their best efforts to improve conditions, it still takes 10 – 15 years for tree seedlings to bloom with fungi.

Although Europe recently passed laws to counter their truffieres from being infected with inferior truffles, there remains a genuine risk for European farmers that the spores from Chinese fakes will infect European soils. So it appears that for now, for as long as demand outstrips supply, the truffle mafia will continue to reign and that a shaving of this delicacy will continue to be granted only to the highest bidders.

Delve deeper into the world of truffles, call or email and schedule an appointment with Susan, or take a browse through our blog.

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What’s the weather got to do with it?

Oh, you know, just surveying some truffle trees!

The journey of truffle farming is not an easy one, with weather as one of the main influences on growth. Truffles tend to grow right after heavy rains when the soil is damp. They grow in similar conditions to other fungi, shying away from extreme heat and freezing environments, preferring a stable temperature and sufficient drainage. Climate is crucial, too—with the right stable climate being where winters are cool and wet, and summers warm and dry, creating the perfect truffle growing habitat.

Truffles need a very particular environment to grow in because if this is disturbed in any way or conditions are far from perfect, the on-flow effect means truffles don’t grow as they should. All this decreases the harvest and pushes up the prices.

With the worldwide weather phenomena of climate change well and truly upon us, and temperatures continuing to rapidly increase, you can see why the weather is impacting the growth of truffles more than ever before.

What else impacts truffle prices?

Truffle pasta dishes are no gimmick but they sure will set you back.

It’s not just about the weather when it comes to truffle prices. There are a few more reasons behind truffle price variations:

1. Unpredictability

Truffles are natural products with unpredictable growth patterns and growing seasons, keeping the supply just as unpredictable and the demand, incredibly high.

2. Man Labor

Because they grow off of tree roots underground, truffles are quite difficult to locate and would often require truffle hunters with specially trained dogs to be harvested. They traditionally used pigs—until it was discovered that dogs are easier to manage and far less likely to eat their truffle finds (we don’t blame them for being unable to resist). And because a single truffle hunter with a dog can only find a small amount, hiring more truffle hunters with dogs is imperative to ensure that maximum truffle quantity is collected.

3. Time

Truffles have a relatively short shelf life. Sure, they keep for weeks when stored properly but their aroma and flavor halve in 4-5 days. And being 70% water, they lose 2-3% of their precious moisture each day they’re out of the ground, causing them to grow out of their prime too quickly. To combat this, fresh truffles need to be delivered to restaurants and distributors within 36 hours of harvest; and the cost to pull that off almost always adds up.

There are plenty of cost drivers behind the price variations of truffles—from weather and unpredictability, down to truffle hunters with dogs who go to extra lengths to find and harvest them, and the overall race against time. Despite the hefty price tag, however, the market for truffles is constantly growing—with not only the best chefs but also home cooks all over the world, purchasing and experimenting with them in their kitchen.

Want to learn more about the wonders of truffles? Browse through our blog to get started.

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